Makelar Tjerita

The house of Thio Thiam Tjong on Jalan Gajahmungkur Selatan 11, Semarang. This antique indisch house were designed by Thomas Kaarsten, the famous architect during the colonial period. (source: Mas Khrisna)

Have a friends that works in architectural agencies which is have specialized in preservation old building, were so helpful for me in order to complete my articles about the history mainly in related with Semarang. Its my friend named Yohanes Khrisna H P, that asked me about "who is actually Thio Thiam Tjong? How come this man afford to hired Thomas Kaarsten, the famous architect at that time in order to design His house?". I was so long time ago known this house but just now, by the info from Mas Khrisna actually, know that this house once belongs to Tho Thiam Tjong, and its designed by Kaarsten. Then I found who is Thio Thiam Tjong as its written in "Prominent Indonesian Chinese: Biographical Sketches" by Leo Suryadinata.

The preparatory commission and the welcoming commission of Chung
Hwa Hui at the assembly table, 1927. Thio is in the left most position
on that picture. (source: Chinese Indonesian Heritage Center)

Thio Thiam Tjong was born on April 4th 1896 form the wealthy peranakan (native-chinese) family. His father was the owner of the export-import firm in Semarang, Thio Siong Liong Maatschappij, which Thio Thiam Tjong inherited and expanded after his father had retired. Thio was Dutch-educated, first in Semarang and later in Delft Technical College, Netherlands. Before graduating, he returned to Java, presumably to take over His fathers business, He became very active in the local chinese community named Chung Hwa Hui (CHH). Founded in 1928 CHH is a political organization that carried the ethnic Chinese Nationalism oriented to Dutch East Indies authorities, this was contrary to Tiong Hoa Hwe Kwan (THHK). This movement is getting support from so many peranakan intellectuals. CHH take a cooperation sides against the Colonial authorities and actively participate in local political institutions included in the Volksraad (People's Council). Here, Thio was elected to its central board, where after that elected as President of the Semarang branch in the 1930s and served as the Provincial Council of Central Java.

participants of Chung Hwa Hui Congress came together for dinner
at Hotel Du Pavillion (now Hotel Dibya Puri), 1927.
(source: Chinese Indonesian Heritage Center)

Beside His political carrier, Thio Thiam Tjong also concerned with social and educational affairs of the Chinese community. In 1928, He became the chairman of the Chinese-English School (Now used as SMA Negeri 5 Semarang). Following the Japanese occupation of Manchuria, He inisiated the Jiogou Houyuan Hui (Save the country from the back line) movement and later the China Charity Fund (Semarang Branch) in order to support the resistance against Japanese in Manchuria. It was reported that for every donation drive His Thio Siong Liong Maatschappij was alway the largest donor. Before the Japanese invasion of Java, the Colonial Government organized a local defence force in which He was appointed as the Chief Commander. Thus, following the fall of Java into Japanese force, Thio was detained in Interneringskamp (eng: consentration camp) from 1942 until 1945.

The Chinese English School "Hwa Ing" in Bodjong Straat (now Jalan-
Pemuda) Semarang. Thio became the Chairman of this school on 1928.
Now its used as the SMA Negeri 5 Semarang. (source: semarang.nl)

When the Revolution for Independence broke up. Thio was invited by Governor-General Van Mook to became His personal adviser, considering Thio's popularity among the Indonesian chinese. In 1948, Thio established Persatuan Tionghoa (PT) with the aim of organizing Indonesian Chinese readiness for the changing situation. Nevertheless, the complete withdrawal of the Dutch forces and the coming power of indigenous Indonesians diminished Thio's influence. His past record as van Mook's adviser made Him labeld as anti-nationalist movement. Thio's PDTI (the new name of the PT after 1950) was declining and replaced by Baperki. Thio later concerned in His busines and education activity. In 1957, he together with another Chinese-Indonesian, formed a committee to established the Tarumanegara University. Thio Died in Netherlands on December 22nd 1969.

His House in Semarang once used as Singapore International School (SIS) before its moved to another place in Semarang. Now its remained empty, and wished this antique indisch house, still preserved for a long time.

Purworejo Train Station in 2014 (in the left) and the condition on 1910 (in the right). (source: KITLV)

Hello world! Long time no see, well I've gotta continues my story when I was renew my old memories in my childhood city, Purworejo! Well, the journey continues,

After having lunch, we continued our journey to Purworejo Train Station. Passing through Jalan Jendral Sudirman, on the right side there's an old building complex that is still in good condition. The building is the former Hollandse Kweekschool (HKS) that now used as SMA Negeri 7 Purworejo. The building is established in 1914, as the continuation of Kweekschool in Bandung. Kweekschool is a formal education to become a teacher during the Dutch East Indies period, and its used Dutch language as the language of instruction. In 1930, this school were merged into Hollandsche Indische Kweekschool (H.I.K) in Bandung, and the building of HKS in Purworejo become Meer Uitgebreid Lager Onderwijs (MULO), a Junior High School at that time. After the independence, the building used as an institute to educate the teacher or known Sekolah Pendidikan Guru (PGS). Thus until now, even my Mom, recognize it as SPG building. But in 1991, the building used as SMA Negeri 7 Purworejo until now.

The Hogere Kweek School (HKS), Purworejo dated 1930 taken
from Achmad Nangim collection. two pilars as a gate in front of it
still depicted the symbol of HKS, a proof that once
this building was used as HKS campus, a school for .

A couple minutes from the HKS, we arrived in Purworejo Train Station. According to the text that now displayed in the main hall of the station, not so many changed occured in Purworejo Train Station. This station which is built in 1887 by Staats Spoorwegen (SS) are representing the architectural style of the train station in the 19th century, simple and counted heavely on its function rather than the aesthetics aspect nor certain architectural style. Thus, the PT Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI) as the operator of the railways services in Indonesia now categorized it as a cultural heritage site.

Once, when I was 5 years old, I became the witnessed of this line was reactivate by the Ministry of Transportation at that time, Haryanto Dhanutirto in 1996 after it was inactive for several years. The people celebrate it by coming to the station and saw the incoming train from Kutoarjo, a city that located in the main line of Jakarta-Jogjakarta line, the nearest station from Purworejo. Only one train arriving and departing from this station , that is the feeder train serving the lines between Purworejo-Kutoarjo. Since November 2010, the feeder train is no longer operated due to the condition of the railroad that getting old and havent been renovated for a long time. Thus, the line now became inactive again until uncertain time.

Fort and barracks of Kedoeng Kebo, Purworejo in 1880 (source: KITLV)

From the station, We moved to visit my childhood house that located in Jalan Kesatrian, behind the military complex of 412 Batalyon, or well known as Kedung Kebo military facilities. This was one's of the military complex that inisiated built by the Dutch in order to repelled the Diponegoro rebellions during the Java War using the Benteng Stelseel (eng: Battlefield Fortification) strategy. It was implied since May 1827, the Battlefield Fortification means that fort was not only have a passive role in the military defense, but it’s emphasized that the fort has active and important role as quarter for offensive operation, military command and control and logistic purposes.

Balai Prajurit building in Purworejo, 2014.

The complex later equipped by housing complex, hospital, sport facilities and so on. Made it a compact military facilities that also made the Purworejo city developed well. Until now, several military assets thats is coming from the colonial period were still well preserved when another where torned down or decayed. Now here I stand in Balai Prajurit, a big hall that almost 19th years ago, my family as well as my neighborhood doing our Tarawih prayers every Ramadhan, since there's no mosque available yet. I feel slightly sad when I see this decaying or going to waste. This place have held so much memories, but now they are just left there, abandoned and slowly forgotten...

A photos from KITLV depicted MS. Marnix van St. Aldegonde, a Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland (SMN) luxury liner with the heavies about 19.000 tons, servicing line between Amsterdam and Batavia. Later used as a troopship in the Central Naval Force of the allied forces during World War II. Tragically, She was torpedoed by German bombers in the Mediterranean on November 7, 1943 and sunk. | inzet: SMN lugage label (source: stoomvaartmaatschappijnederland.nl)

Entering Kota Lama from the west sides, from Jalan Pemuda, we'll welcomed by several iconic building lies along Jalan Mpu Tantular. One's of the building is Djakarta Lloyd building, that not so many people pay attention to this. Despite the activity is not as crowd as the building beside it, Bank Mandiri, the Djakarta Lloyd building in Kota Lama once become the office for the largest shipping company from Netherlands. Yap, Djakarta Lloyd building in Kota Lama once is a office for Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland (SMN). What we see today is the new building that designed by Thomas Karsten and accomplished in 1930. A luxurious building as the symbol of the glorious of the company, see the videos below from the film titled Zoo reizen wij naar Indie, Java-Bali 1938 that depicting the SMN office in Semarang. The SMN itself later nationalized by the government of Republic Indonesia, and their asset were taken over by several state company, just like in Kota Lama, its owned by Djakarta Lloyd.

The story of NV Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland (SMN), Amsterdam begin in 1870 while its started to operate a regular steam shipping service between Amsterdam and Batavia. SMN is one of the oldest and largest shipping companies in Netherlands. The SMN established to fulfilled the demand of sea transportation, which is increasing significantly from Asia to Europe after the opening of Suez Canaal in 1869.

A ship from the SMN leaving the passenger terminal
of port Tandjoengpriok, taken before 1952 (source: tropenmuseum)

From 1870 to 1970, together with the Rotterdam Lloyd, millions tons of goods were delivered, especially from the Dutch East Indies. Also hundreds of thousands of planters, businessmen, soldiers, officials and adventurers with and their families moved to the Dutch East Indies as well as others place of Dutch colony. The passenger ships, such as MS Orange, Ms. Johan van Barneveld and Ms. Marnix van St. Aldegonde, were known for their luxury and comfort for that time. SMN ended their operation on January 20th, 1970, while its merded with three other companies to form the Nederlandsche Scheepvaart Unie (NSU). NSU later changed its name into Koninklijke Nedlloyd or simply known as Nedlloyd, until now.

The office building of Maintz & Co. in Kota Lama, Semarang, 1927. Now used as the office and assembling factory of Praoe Lajar cigarettes | Inzet: a pack of Praoe Lajar cigarette (source: KITLV | seputarsemarang.com)

A bad news coming for smokers in Indonesia on last tuesday, since the guvernment told cigarette makers on to start putting graphic warnings on cigarette packaging, the government's boldest step to reduce smoking in the world's third-largest cigarette market. Arrrghhh...finaly, these disgusting picture come to the cigarettes pack here. Well, but some people said especially those who joined anti-smoking campaign that the rule was widely ignored. Widely ignored or lack of socialization?

According to an articles in tempo.co, Indonesia currently has 672 cigarette companies that consist of 669 domestic companies and three importers. Wow! Such a great number isnt? I thought that the government should have a good willingness to give the socialization to those hundreds of cigarettes company. I guess it gonna take a long long time. Anyway, despite smoking such a bad habbit, but for me, these kinda cultural product that sometimes we have to maintain it. Indonesia, have a one kind of cigarettes that very popular around the world, its cigarettes made with a blend of tobacco, cloves and other flavors, simply known as Kretek. (See also: The story of Nitisemito, "The Kings of Kretek" )

An advertising of Maintz & Co. in Isles of the East,
An illustrated guide to Australia, New Guinea,
Java, and Sumatra book, published by
Koninklijke Paketvaart Maatschappij (KPM) in 1912.

Partly due to favorable taxation compared to "white" cigarettes, kreteks are by far the most widely smoked form of cigarettes in Indonesia, where about 90% of smokers usually smoke kreteks. In Indonesia, there are hundreds of kretek manufacturers, including small local makers and major brands. Most of the widely known international brands, including Sampoerna, Djarum, Gudang Garam, Wismilak and so on, but here in Semarang, we also have our own local brands, Praoe Lajar. Eventhough its not as popular among another major kretek company, Praoe Lajar have a loyal consument that spread over Pantura (eng: north coast of Java). Praoe Lajar office and also its assembling factory is located in Kota Lama, Semarang, made it one's of the iconic place in Kota Lama. The visitors in Kota Lama also could visiting inside the factory and see the production process of Kretek cigarettes, every weekdays from 8 a.m till 12 a.m.

Only a few people realized that Praoe Lajar office and factory once is a office for Maintz & Co. a private energy company that firstly developed the electricity in Dutch East Indies. Maintz & Co. produced electricity and had her work in Central and East Java, especially Surabaya, Semarang, Yogyakarta, Pasuruan and Salatiga. Maintz & Co. have some subsidiaries one of it is N.V. Algemeene Nederlandsch-Indische Electriciteits-Maatschappij (ANIEM) that founded in 1909. Maintz & Co. just like the others foreign company in Indonesia, by the late of 50's decade come's to an end through the nationalization policy. Its nationalized in May, 2nd 1959. Likely after that, the office in Semarang used as the office and factory for Praoe Lajar, until now.

The participant of Lopen Semarang events "Telusur Jalur Trem" taking photo together in front of former head office of Semarang Joana Stoomtram Maatschappij (SJS) in Pengapon, Semarang. Behind this building once are existed the main SJS werkplaats (eng: workshop), but now is already un-used and abandoned. (photos by: Adityo Cahyo)

Semarang, in the late of 19^thcentury was growth into one’s of the important city in Dutch-Indies, a main port city with trade and services based. The people soon comes into this city, wishing to get the better job and welfare. This urbanization flow makes Semarang density were increasing from time to time, thus a better city transportation were urgently needed. This challenge were answered by NV. Semarang Joana Stoomtram Maatschappij (SJS), a steam tram operator company that got the concession from the colonial government to served the needs of public transportation in the city of Semarang until Juwana. The president of SJS, Mr. H. M. A. Baron van Der Goes van Dirxland got this concession via Besluit van den Gouverneur-Generaal No.5 dated March 18^th 1881. Soon, the historical moment came on December 1^st 1881 when its inaugurated the first line of the city tram service between Jurnatan Station until Jomblang Station.

The map depicted the city tram lines in Semarang
on 1913. (source: KITLV)

This first line extending along 4.4 KM from through the Mataram Weg (Now Jalan MT. Haryono). The citizen of Semarang were amused to this new kind of transportation technology. But new technology always broght a funny stories at the beginning. Liem Thian Joe, a famous journalist wrotes that the natives and the Chinese are believed that this kind of vehicle were moved by intangible creatures, and it needs a human sacrifice. Thus, they never let their kids going outside in the evening, afraid of they’ll be taken by the creatures. But soon this rumours were disappeared together with the important role of this means. On March 3^rd 1883 its inaugurated the two new lines, there are Jurnatan Station until Bulu Station, through the Aloon-Aloon (City Square) and Bodjong Weg (Now Jalan Pemuda), also from Jurnatan Station until Samarang NIS Station, the major railway station at that time that also the first railway station in Dutch-Indies, later Indonesia. Then on July 2^nd 1883 its inaugurated the line from Jurnatan Station until the new harbor, and the last is on November 4^th 1899 when its inaugurated the line between Bulu Station until Bandjir Kanaal West Station, through Boeloe Weg (Now Jalan Mgr. Soegijopranoto). Besides the station, this tram line were served by several stopplats (eng: Tram Stop) there are in Kemijen, Aloen-Aloen Semarang, Bodjong, Karangturi and Bangkong.

The tram services in Semarang city by SJS were using the B12 series locomotives, produced by NV. Werkspoor from Netherlands and also the same type produced by Beyer-Peacock, England. This locomotief have classification as 0-4-0 locomotives, which 0-4-0 represents one of the simplest possible types, that with two axles and four coupled wheels, all of which are driven. The rail used the 1067 mm gauge, common gauge for Indonesian Railways, and above it the tram could reach its maximum speed of 25 km/hours. One’s of the B12 series locomotive now is preserved as a monument, in front of Pasar Turi Station, Surabaya.

The Djomblang Station on 1915. Its also depicted on the picture
the B12 locomotives series by NV. Werkspoor, Netherlands. (source: KITLV)

Hmmm, why its in Surabaya? Well the stories goes on. The development of the city tram in Semarang were not as good as in the other city like Batavia (Jakarta) and Surabaya, which also electrified in the beginning of 20^th century. The city tram development in Semarang were getting stucks, its still using the steam power that needs the teak wood, which is the price are expensive, as its firing. Then on the 1940, the Gemeenteraad (eng: City Council) of Semarang decided to closed the city tram operation. Its gained a mass protest among the Semarang citizen but the policy are goes on. Then the locomotives and the trains that once used to serviced the city tram in Semarang, were moved into the Surabaya. That’s why now, one’s of them are preserved in Pasar Turi station, Surabaya.

The site of the Sanatorium building, turned into an empty land with a huge Beringin tree in the center. It could be the biggest Beringin tree in Semarang city.

During my childhood in 1997, my family moved into Semarang. Our family occupied a house in Cinde Barat neighborhood. I lived in that neighborhood until 2000, the housing complex that used to be a chinese cemetery in the past and has a hilly contour. Sometimes in Sunday, together with my siters, we have a jogging to the highest place in the neighborhood that has a huge Beringin tree (eng: Weeping fig, latin: Ficus benjamina). Its even visible from the main street, and widely known as haunted place. There’s a big abandoned colonial building that attracted me surround the tree’s but due to the reputation as the haunted place, my sisters always prevented me to entering the building. In 2003, I entering the Junior High School in SMP Negeri 8 Semarang, in the foothill where this colossal trees is situated. I just got the answer from my friends in the school that the name of the building is Sanatorium. But then when I came back to visited it, only the right wings of the building remains, and its completely destroyed when I came to visit again in 2007.

The Sanatorium photos around 1946-1948.
(source: Nederlands Instituut voor Militaire Historie)

Long time ago before antibiotics for tuberculosis symptomps are founded, most of people in the world are feared with this kind of disease caused by microbacteria infections. Tuberculosis caused the most widespread public concern in the 19th and early 20th centuries as an endemic disease of the urban poor. Thus, there’s a facility named Sanatorium, to treated the people with tubercolusis and this also an effort to prevented the spreading of the infection among the people. There’s basic aspects that sanatorium have to fulfilled it, the fresh air. Most of the sanatorium are built in the remote areas, mostly in the hilly area. The combination of high altitude, fresh air, and good nutrition is believed to the basic needs for the patient with tubercolusis to get better condition.

Semarang, have its sanatorium in Karanganyar Gunung, the hilly area in the southern part of the city. Until now still there’s exact date when its built, but if we checked through the map archives of the KITLV (Koninklijk Instituut voor Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde), the sanatorium is still undepicted in the map until 1920’s. In my opinion, it could be the year its built is not so far from the another sanatorium in Salatiga, 1934, the only sanatorium remains in Central Java provinces, now turned into respiratory hospital called Rumah Sakit Paru dr. Ario Wirawan Salatiga. The building of Semarang Sanatorium is have been long abandoned since 1978, when the authority felt the location is not fit anymore as a sanatorium due to the pollution rate. The building then owned by leading Indonesian-based ceramics tableware, Sango. There’s a rumour among the people surround it that the owner planned to build the hotel in that place, so we’ll see is that tree are going survived? But, there’s a popular story also that no one’s able to cut down the trees, because once they do it they will suffer’s from illness until death. Beringin tree, moreover on that enormous size, always brings a lot of stories that hard to explained by logic.

The luxurious entrance in Oei Tiong Ham Concern Headquarters.
inzet: the inscription that indicated Liem Bwan Tjie as the
architects of this building also the year its finished, 1930.

In economy, we recognized conglomerate company model. Its a combination of two or more corporations engaged in entirely different businesses that fall under one corporate group, usually involving a parent company and many subsidiaries. Conglomerates are often large and multinational. Conglomerates also often related to the tycoon, a billionaire! Here in Semarang, its widely known about the story of the first tycoon in South East Asia, a man who have a reputation as “200 million guilder man”.

His name was Oei Tiong Ham, I’m not going to write down about his biography, because you can find it easily in the internet. But I’m going to write down about his legacy, a luxury-three story building that used to be his company headquarters, located in Kota Lama (eng: Old Town), Semarang. It’s a bit hard to going inside, exploring the proof of Oei Tiong Ham Concern conglomeration success story. But, when there’s a will there’s a way! Last week I used to help the Dutch Experts related to the heritage preservation from Missing Link. One’s of the activity is inviting the owner of the buildings in Kota Lama area. Then I met with Mas Nur, the Marketing Manager of PT. Rajawali Nusindo, the company that used to managed the legacy of Oei Tiong Ham Concern after the whole assets is confiscated by Indonesian Government in 1961. Well, its supposed to be a great company, but, just like the others company who managed the asset from nationalization, the performance is declined, not as good as its supposed to be. Hehehe, back to the story, then together with two vrouwen from Missing Link, Pauline and Esther, we explored this building, with the permission from Mas Nur of course.

Mas Nur from PT. Rajawali Nusindo (current owner of the
building) shows the secret cabinet in the meeting rooms to
Paulie, one's of the expert from Missing Link.

Taken from the 3rd floor, office and warehouse as well!

One things that I have to say when I entering the building is, enormous! All of the material which used here seems to be the finest material that they can get at that time. High quality and colourful marbles used as the floor tile and also wall decoration. Here also in the entrance we found the inscription that the building is finished on 1930, and designed by Liem Bwan Tjie, the prominent Chinese architect, that supposed to be the first Chinese descent architect in Indonesia also. The building, in my opinion is really a models of green building. Its have a good ventilation to managed the good air circulation from the side wall and also from the roof. There’s a special form of glass ceiling to maximize the application of natural lighting. But rather than using all of these advantages of design, the people there currently made some modification that even make all of these things become useless. Like the adding of air conditioner system and the heat pump, they placed it inside the building also, then you can imagine how it’ll made the building so “warm”. Also several ventilation are closed, and so much modification in its lavatory. Even the main hall, now functioned as warehouse also. Screw it all! At least this building are still in good condition, because of still in used, not abandoned like several building in Kota Lama. We also can find the secret cabinet behind the wall decoration in the meeting room. Wow! What a functional design!

Oei Tiong Ham itself never worked in this building, because its finished in 1930, he already died 6 years before, on 1924 in Singapore. At that time the Oei Tiong Ham Concern runs by his successors, Oei Tjong Hauw, the sons of Oei Tiong Ham from his 4th wife.

De Locomotief office that situated in Hoogendorpstraat 20-22 just like its written in its headlines (see the inzet). Hoogendorpstraat currently became Jalan Kepodang, and this photos is taken on 2007, long before the 2nd floor part is collapsed in early of 2015.

De Locomotief was the first newspaper published in Semarang. It was established in the middle of 19th century and led by Pieter Brooshooft, an ethical political activist. The daily was originally named Semarangsch Nieuws en Advertentieblad. In 1863 it was renamed De Locomotief, after the passage of the first train in Semarang. The paper was closed, but in 1947 De Locomotief was re-opened again. According to Rukardi Achmadi, a notable Semarang historian In 1957 due to the Indonesian confrontation with the Dutch related to the Papua Barat (eng:West Guinea) issue , the newspaper was closed and the building was taken over by Tempo Media Group, and there they runs the newspaper named Suluh Marhaen until its banned by the government under Soeharto regime on 1966 due to its political affiliations.

De Locomotief office condition, shortly after I got information about the exact
place of this from Indische Literarire Wandelingen but its already in ruins.

Trace back De Locomotief office, Senarai Bangunan dan Kawasan Pusaka Kota Semarang (List of the Heritage Building and Area in Semarang) issued in 2006 stated that the building currently used as Bank Mandiri KCP Kepodang. Its a national bank branch that situated in the crossroad between Jalan Kepodang and Jalan Suari. Then in wikipedia.org, also stated that place is supposed to be the location of De Locomotief Hoofdredactie. But if we check through the photo’s archive of KITLV and Tropenmuseum either. The building that currently used as Bank Mandiri KCP Kepodang isn’t the De Locomotief daily office. Its a Nederlandsch Indische Handelsbank, a Dutch private bank that established in 1863 and nationalized by the Indonesian government in 1957 and renamed into Bank Umum Negara (BUNEG). BUNEG then changed its name into Bank Bumi Daya and following the major restructurisation of the national banking company in 1999, Bank Bumi Daya mergered with three others bank, Bank EXIM, BAPINDO and Bank Dagang Negara formed Bank Mandiri. Thus the asset now belongs to Bank Mandiri. So its became clear that building isn’t De Locomotief office.

Inside the ruins of De Locomotief building. On the
opposite is the former office of one's of the largest
export-import company during the colonial period
Geo Wehry & Co.

In the headlines of De Locomotief its written that the address of the office is in Hoogendorpstraat 20-22, Semarang. Currently the place that used to be named as Hoodendorpstraat is changed into Jalan Kepodang, but the problem is, is it the numbering of the building still following the numbering during the colonial period? Then in June 2015, I got the answer! A website named “Indische Literaire Wandelingen” doing the documentation of several building in Kota Lama (eng: old town) Semarang. Its seems like they do it in the 90’s decade (seen from the photos and comparation of the condition of the building), and there, they written about De Locomotief office is located in Jalan Kepodang 20-22, so the numbering is just the same as during the colonial period.

Unfortunately, when I got there to make a documentation, the 2nd floor part is already collapsed! What a pity! The owner took the teak wood of the 2nd floor, because of some of its got stolen before. Its became a fatality due to the construction of the building still in the old ways, that floor is also use a function as wall holder. Then during our wet season, the wall getting fragiled and collapsed. Only the 1st floor is remained, like a ruins in World War 2 film scene. Luckily i have a documentation about this building in 2007, but I take it from a bit far distance. At least, I can show to the people how’s look like, De Locomotief office. A place where ethical politics figure like Conrad Theodore van Deventer struggled for the better condition of the indigenous people of Indonesia through the newspaper. Without De Locomotief activities, I simply cant imagined about how the history of Indonesia would written. Surely its a really important building as a part of our struggle for independence, but now its forgotten and slowly perished.

NB. This article firstly published on November 9th 2012, but then due to these new fact about the exact position of the De Locomotief office, so I completely change the old version of the articles.

The Gambang Semarang Dance performance at Sobokartti, performance by Gambang Semarang Art Company on 2014.
(courtesy: Adityo Cahyo)

On Thursday, 10 December 2015, I was attended the discussion held by The Java Institute, a research group about Java Island as economy, ecology, social, natural resources and cultures entity, based in Catholic University (UNIKA) of Soegijapranata. The theme of the discussion is about Thomas Karsten, the prominent architect from the colonial period, delivered by Dr. Joost Cote, currently a academician in Monash University with a primary research interest in early twentieth century history of Indonesia. Its not my first time following his lectures, but that day, its just a small group of discussion, so its better than before.

Me and Dr. Joost Cote during the discussion, thanks Pak Tjahjono for taking
this photos.

Dr. Joost Cote, explained about the creation process of Volkstheater Sobokartti, as a people’s theatre, giving an alternatives space for the indigenous people of Semarang specifically, to enjoy the Javanese cultural performance. De Volkstheater Sobokartti, or now simply known as Sobokartti, is really unique because its combined the Javanese Pendopo design, a place to performing traditional dance with the European style theatre. Here, Karsten as a brilliant architect were combined it and this is were built in the situation where the economic condition in Semarang were growth well. A lot of new middle class people, a lot of residencial area were built and even the kampong itself were revitalized through the Kampoeng Verbetering programs, where the Gemeente (city council) providing the basic needs for the residencial area like drainage system, sanitation, and access to fresh water. Thus on that condition, its created people demand to developed their own culture, the Javanese culture. They conscious as the Javanese people, even in the harbor city like Semarang that actually less having strong cultural roots, its supposed to preserve their own culture. Commonly, the people thinks those people in Vorstenlanden area like Sultanate of Yogyakarta, Principality of Pakualam, Principality of Mangkunegara, and Sunanate of Surakarta having strong cultural roots, because its still in form of kingdom with all of those manners.

Karsten (marked with x) during a visits of Rabindranath
Tagore to Mangkunegara Palace. Beside Rabindranath
Tagore is Mangkunegara VII. (source: KITLV)

Thomas Karsten really concerns about Javanese culture. He even having really strong relationship with Mangkunegara VII, the ruler of Principality of Mangkunegara. Karsten designed the pendopo in the front gallery of Mangkunegara palace, that supposed to be the biggest Javanese Pendopo in Indonesia. Interestingly, according to Dr. Joost Cote, for Karsten all of the Javanese tradition developing in the Vorstenlanden is done, its already end. In Vorstenlanden they have the Keraton (Kingdom Palace), and the tradition only developing there, so Karsten think the Javanese civilization is at stake. So that’s why through the people in Semarang Kunstkring (the Semarang Art Society), with all of the fellow Javanese that having the same idea, the Sobokartti began to planned. In December 9th 1920, its began to created the Volks Vereeniging Sobokartti, a committee to built Volkstheater Sobokartti. The prominent figure behind it beside Karsten is Mangkunagara VII and Dr. Radjiman, from Boedi Oetomo Organization. Even Karsten already designed its Volkstheater in 1919, but it take a long time before its officially inaugurated on 1930. The design of the building also different from the beginning due to lack of funds.

But there’s an interesting story, while Pak Tjahjono Rahardjo, a lecturer from UNIKA stated that as He remember from his grandfather, at that time amongst the Javanese people, there’s a opinion only a walthy people could afford performance in Sobokarrti. Well, seems the idea of the inisiator isn’t applied well. Maybe because of its design, that combined the Javanese Pendopo and European Theatre, because none of partition in Javanese Pendopo, its open so that everybody could enjoy the performance. But the Sobokartti is different, its closed, it have a tribune, and also have a ticketing counter. Maybe because of that differences, people just don’t get used to it. Its even happens nowadays, Pak Tjahjono also a activist in Sobokartti, and every He and His fellow in Sobokartti creating something inside, less people coming, but its different when they held event outside, in the outer pendopo that still in form of Javanese Pendopo, more people coming.

De Volkstheater Sobokartti, taken in 1993.
(source: PKMvR Heritage Research Consultacy)

But for me, maybe Karsten is right. As a harbor city, Semarang people are used to be a economy-minded, everything has a price. So that’s why, even for this one, maybe Karsten wants to the artist get money from this, the performance has to be monetized! And its normal in the harbor city like Semarang when the people bit individualistic. But even the Javanese proverb have something related with this, Jer Basuki Mawa Bea, if its translated Jer Basuki (an achievement) –Mawa (needs) –Bea (Cost/Sacrifice), see? ;)

Geo Wehry & Co. building (with the minaret and utility pole) as seen from
Societeitsbrug or known as Jembatan Berok in 1925 (source: KITLV)

Learning history sometimes looks like solving the puzzle. It has the whole record of the past and the big picture of history is made only from small, seemingly insignificant pieces. but then when we combined it all together, we can see that it’s something important, even its shaped our understanding of the present or something. Couple days ago with my old friends from Senior High School, I went to the pool (billiard hall) in Kota Lama. Its belongs to the one’s of the new hangout place in the middle of the development of Kota Lama in the recent years, and this kind of place always attract me to pay a visit. I want to know how its look like after the renovation and also its convertion of function.

This place, that named as Kota Lama Billyard, using the former office of one’s of the greatest multinational company in Dutch Indies (present days Indonesia) during the Colonial Period, Geo Wehry & Co. Its belongs to the Top Big Five company at time together with Lindeteves Stokvis, Netherlands Handel Maatschappij (NHM), Borsumij, Jacobson Van Den Berg and Internationale Crediet-en Handels-Vereeniging Rotterdam (Internatio). Geo Wehry & Co. originated in 1862 at Batavia (nowadays Jakarta). By the end of the century, it had branches at Surabaya, Cirebon and Semarang. The company was particularly active in agricultural estates and the export of agricultural product like tobacco, coffee and tea, with the famous product of it, its Goalparra Tea. During the twenties it began to participate in brewery industries, with the Tjap Koentji as the famous brands of it. According to Indische Literaire Wandelingen sites, the building is designed by D.W Hinse.

Inside the building, now turns into pool (Billyard Hall)

D. W. Hinse J.Hzn. is a Dutch architect that coming to Semarang firstly in 1902 to preparing the construction of Nederlandsch Indische Spoorwed Maatschappij Hoofdkantoor, or well known as Lawang Sewu. Lawang Sewu is designed by Prof. Jacob F. Klinkhamer in Delft and Mr. B. J. Ouëndag, architect in Amsterdam, but then for the construction the D.W. Hinse is commissioned to became in-house architect with the plans of the building, to commence and lead the work. Its explained in Het Administratiegebouw der Nederlandsch-Indische Spoorweg-Maatschappij te Semarang, Nederlandsch-Indië Oud en Nieuw, Volume 1 Number 1, May 1916. translated by Ir. Tjahjono Rahardjo.

The D.W. Hinse wife's tombstone in Ci Guriang
springs in Bandung.

Its interesting! So its seems like D.W. Hinse after His task is done in 1907 when the Lawang Sewu construction is accomplished and officialy inaugurated, He still spent His life in Semarang. But another interesting story is about His wife. Well, I tried to to know more about this person D.W. Hinse but it tooks me to the site of the fellow heritage preservation activist in Bandung, Paman Ridwan (See His sites here), that there’s a neglected tombstone in the natural springs in Bandung that belongs to the D.W. Hinse wife! In the tombstone is written as follow,

ELISABETH ADRIANA HINSE-RIEMAN

GEB. AMSTERDAM

9 MAART 1859

OVERL. BANDOENG

13 JANUARI 1903

In His sites, Paman Ridwan also written if He then found an obituary in Het Nieuws van de Dag – De Kleine Courant, stated the Elisabeth Adriana Hinse-Reiman died the January 14th in Bandung, from Her husband D.W. Hinse, in Tjandi Semarang. Well another pieces of mistery, D.W. Hinse also lived in Tjandi like Thomas Karsten, a notable Dutch architect. The tombstone now laid in the natural spring of Ci Guriang, and used as the washboard, sounds strange eh? The area once is a kerkhof but then its demolished to built a sport complex, GOR Pajajaran.

Semarang Wees- en Boedelkamer buildings in 1910. (source: KITLV)

It was institution named Wees- en Boedelkamers, means the board in charge of orphans and property in trust. Nowadays, we known this institution changed the name into Lembaga Balai Harta Peninggalan, in Semarang, located in Jalan Hanoman 25. This institution is under the Ministry of Law and Human Rights, and one’s of the oldest institution that still running its role nowadays. Wess en Boedelkamer or also known as Weeskamer is established during the period of Vereenigde Oost Indische Compagnie (VOC), in the 17th century. At that times, there is needs for the population, especially among the Dutch people, to takes care of their wealth that about inheritable to their heirs, either here in Dutch Indies, or in Netherlands, for the orphaned childern, and so on.Thus they formed the Wesskamer institution on October 1st, 1624, in Jakarta under the rule of Pieter de Carpentier as the Governor-General of Dutch Indies.

Charles Ferdinand Pahud, Governor General
of Dutch Indies 1856-1861.

Here in Semarang, the Weeskamer is established in May 17th 1763. Through the Weeskamer, the wealth of every citizens in a city is recorded, as well about their private life, likely a civil administration role at this time. Yap, Dutch people having a good reputation in about these administratie thingy. Here, in the Weeskamer of Semarang, there’s a story about Daniel Abraham Ferdinand Pahud, that became the Head of this institutions in the early of 19th century. His sons, Charles Ferdinand Pahud later became Governor-General of Dutch Indies from 1856-1861. Under His rules in Dutch Indies, the slavery were abolished in 1860.

But where’s the location of the Weeskamer buildings in Semarang? Just like nowadays, the institution is under the Ministry of Law and Human Rights, at that time the Weeskamer commonly situated near the Courts facilities. Here in Semarang, the Weeskamer is located next to the Centraal Gevangenis, the major prison in Semarang, in Jurnatan. Unfortunately, there’s no proof anymore about this building. The building has long time ago demolished, just like my post here before, that Jurnatan, is one’s of the biggest loss in Semarang, related to the Historical sites. Above the sites now is turned into the busy business district.

Komplek Pertokoan Jurnatan, one's of the busiest business district in Semarang, built above the sites of demolished Weeskamer of Semarang and also the Centraal Gevangenis of Semarang.

The Waterloo Plein, now known as Lapangan Banteng in Jakarta. Its named after the White Monument with The Lion Statue on the top of it to commemorate the Prince of Orange (later reigning as Willam II of Netherlands) who take a part on Waterloo Battle in 1815. The monument then torned down during the Japanese occupation.
(source:Leiden University Library)

The British Troops invaded the Dutch Indies on March, 1811 from India as a part of Napoleonic War. The Netherlands had been controlled by France for several years and was already at war with Britain. Thus, Dutch Indies, now is under the French rules and also became the enemy of the Britons. If in Europe its well known the Waterloo as the last battle of the French against the Coalition Army, ending the Napoleonic War in Europe, here in Semarang, actually there’s a Jatingaleh Battle, the last major battle before the Dutch Indies officialy all into the British hands.

The tombstone of Liutenant-Colonel William
Campbell, of His Britannic Majesty’s
78th Regiment in All-Saint Anglican Church
Jakarta. Campbell died on August 28th 1811
during the Siege of Meester Cornelis.

After the failure to repeled the British attack at Meester Cornelis (nowadays Jatinegara, Jakarta), General Jansens and His troops were escaping to Semarang. Semarang at that time is already became the principal central station of the Java Island, belongs as a large town, with a considerable European population. It is defended by a stone parapet and rampart, with bastions, and a wet ditch, but only calculated for defence against a native power. Here in Semarang, Jansens had collected a considerable force, principally from the native prince. Among whoms, were Prince Prang Wedono (Mangkunegara II) who have a strength 1500 men well trained army called Legion Mangkoenegaran. This is the first regular army in western style in owns by native kingdoms, who established in 1808 and its likely inspired by French Grande Armee.

The British troops chasing the Jansens retreat to Semarang, led by Captain Maxwell, this “Red Coats” army were sailed to Semarang on September 10th 1811. On th September 13th the British troops, now under the command of Colonel Gibbs, landed at Semarang, but then realized that the French Troops is already abandoned the city. The Jansens were made a last attempt to repels the British attack in the hilly and difficult terrain in south of Semarang, Gombel Hill. The Jansens has choosed the battlefield were He can takes the advantages of this hilly terrain and the flanks of the position were protected by the extreme difficulty of the approach, and could not be turned in any other way than by a road of many miles through an intricate country. The road toward Gombel itself which is part of the main road to Solo, were barried with many chevaux de frise, a medieval defensive anti-cavalry measure consisting of a portable frame (sometimes just a simple log) covered with many projecting long iron or wooden spikes or spears. Jansens also prepared thirty pieces of cannon, regularly placed on platform. Almost impossible the British troops could beat them in such this condition, but on the other hands, a lots of the French army under Jansens were tiresome of the battle. Many of the army were actually the Dutch army that due to their country were occupied by the French, so now they served into the French Army. For them its not make sense to fights to the death against the British Army superiority, because of actually they were not fights for their homelands, but for their country occupants, the French.

An aerial photos from Leiden University Library archives depicted the Djatingaleh KNIL kampement (now used as military facilities of Batalion ARHANUDSE, an Air Defence Artillery Department ) in 1930-1932. Comparing with the sketch of enemy position in the William Thorns books titled Conquest of Java, the X sign above is the position of French Troops in Gombel Hill, and the X below is the position of Jatingaleh valley (on the sketch is spelled as Jatty Nallee). Now the valley is built a highway that became a part of Semarang Toll Road .

September 16th 1811, at two o’clock in the afternoon, Colonel Gibbs moved their troops to attacking the French position in Jatingaleh. About 1200 firelock (muzzle-loading firearm) and six guns were prepared for this. The Colonel halted in fornt of the position before the dawn, in order to reconnoitre, which was essentially necessary previous to an assault, as no information, on which any reliance was to be placed, could be obtained at Semarang. A detachment with two guns, was sent to occupy a hill, which appeared to overlook the left of the enemy line. The remaining guns were brought to throw shot at a great elevation accros the vallet into the French Troops position. Soon as the guns were firing at the enemy position, Colonel Gibbs rushed accross the valley and up to the main road till they nearly reached the summit of the hill. They halted and allow the main body to advance. The enemy was surprised, they even didnt open fire till the British Troops under shelter.The British Troops the crossing the Valley of Jatingaleh, Colonel Gibbs ordering general advance on the enemy position.

British Redcoat uniforms,
by Cpt. R.H.Raymond Smythies, 1894

The French Troops now distracted their collumns, leaving their guns behind and retreating in all directions. Its all proved that the discipline and the morality of the French Troops in the lowest level during the whole battle in Java. Comparing to the Siege of Meester Cornelis that in total British Troops lost 156 of his men , 788 wounded and 16 missing in August 27th 1811, this battle was nothing. Some sources account that only the Legion Mangkoenegaran maintain their disciplines, but soon its also crushed by the Red Coats. Jansens fleed to the south, to Fort of Salatiga and finding himself totally deserted by His men. He sent the same night a request to the British Troops for a cessations of arms and an offer to treat for a capitulation. The request were sent to the Liutenant General Sir Samuel Auchmuty, that saw this is the chance for the British Troops to shortened the conquest of Java, even the British Army still preparing to taken the city of Surabaya, another major harbour city in Java. The capitulation finaly taken place at Tuntang, a small city in the west of Salatiga on September 18th 1811. After that, the Dutch Indies, now is officialy under the "Union Jack", and on October 11th 1811, the Lord Minto, the Governor General of India appointed Sir Stamford Raffles as the Governor General of Java.

Source: The Conquest of Java by William Thorns

Thomas Whittecombe paintings about the Capture of Maria
Riggersbergen, a Dutch frigate with 36 guns, in the port of
Batavia as a part of Napoleonic Wars. (source: wikimedia)

The history relation between British and Indonesia have been so long created. In the literature we simply could found about the story about Sir Francis Drake reached Moluccas in 1579 on his circum-globe journey, which supposed to be the first Englishman officialy exploring Indonesia. Then also the story about their post in Banda in 18th century that then its sacked by Jan Pieterzon Coen, the exchanging between Pulau Run and Nieuw Amsterdam (Currently New York) through the Treaty of Breda in 1667, and also during the Napoleonic War, the British taken the DutchIndies, and creating such a notable person, Governor General in Java from 1812-1816, Sir Stamford Raffles with His famous book, The History of Java published in 1817. Then I am wondering as always, how about the story about the British peoples/company in Semarang?

As I know, from the Semarang Map in 1920, issued by NILLMIJ, there’s two British Company in Semarang. Their office is situated in Oude Stadhuisstraat (now Jalan Branjangan) in Kota Lama (Old Town) neigborhood, and the company name is MacLaine & Co. and McNeill & Co. According to G. Roger Knight books titled Trade and Empire in Early Nineteenth-centtury South East Asia: Gillian MacLaine and His Business Network, there was a notable English company in Dutch Indies, Maclaine's Co., an English trading company that established by Gillian Maclaine and Edward Watson in 1822. MacLaine's coming to Dutch Indies in actually earlier, even in 1821 Gillian Maclaine involved in a scheme hatched during the course of 1821 to rent further and very large tract of land for coffee growing from the ruler of Surakarta. After the establishment of Maclaine & Co. the business still related with the coffee, to became an export commodities. MacLaine & Co. beside growing its own coffee in their plantation in Melambong, Salatiga also doing a coffee-buying to the others plantation, to accomodate the needs of export. In 1823, they opened their agents office in Semarang. Later Maclaine joined with the Scottisch owned company, McNeill & Co. one of firms that came to comprise the group of Aisa-based enterprise that formed core of Maclaine Watson network. Thus, this two company having a same office building in Semarang. Their office even became the British Consulate in Semarang, its also depicted on the same map, as its mentioned before.

The opening of the first Jaarmaarkt in Semarang 1908, an exposition about the business potential in Semarang and its surround. D.M. Campbell as the Head McNeill & Co. in Semarang sitting in second position from the right.
(source: Leiden University Library)

But then not so far from the MacLaine &Co. and McNeill & Co. office, there is another British company office. The insurance company named Liverpool & London & Globe Insurance Co. established their representation office in Semarang, also in Oude Stadhuisstraat. Date back to 1836, the year the Liverpool Fire and Life Insurance was established, within a few years, through several acquisitions, it became a prominent actor in the insurance sector. Among these companies taken over was the London, Edinburgh & Dublin Insurance Company in 1847. In 1864, following a successful bid for the Globe Insurance Company, a London-based insurer founded in 1803, the company then became The Liverpool & London & Globe. The Liverpool & London & Globe had a strong presence not only in the UK, where it was one of the main insurance companies, but also in the British empire, especially in Canada, Australia and New Zealand, and even in the US, where its first branches had opened in 1848. In 1919 the Liverpool & London & Globe was acquired by The Royal, a company based in Liverpool and one of the greatest British exporters of insurance, in what was the largest merger in British insurance history. But then in 1919, the company acquired by the Royal Insurance group until the 1996, when the merger between this company and the Sun Alliance changed the name again into Royal & Sun Alliance Insurance, and started from 2008 its simplified the name into RSAInsurance Group, until now.

An effort to preserved the marble plaque of Liverpool & London & Globe
Insurance in Kota Lama, January 17th 2016. Behind that, still visible
the remains of the remains letter configuration forming Roode Driehook,
that makes the people misinterpretated about the name of the building.

Still dont know when the company is left from Indonesia, but the big possibilities its also nationalized during the early stage of the Indonesia indepence. The building of Liverpool & London & Globe Insurance always mistaken as the Roode Driehook, since likely for the needs of the movie set in Kota Lama, the creative team placing a sign name Roode Driehook in the walls of the building. The words sounds so dutch, and the people thoght that its named as Roode Driehook since the establishment of this building. Also, its became one’s of the favourite place to taken photos since the Kota Lama now became one’s of the tourism destination in Semarang. But still, the acknowledgement of the building remains unimportant for most of the visitor, even the plaque that stated if the building is the office of Liverpool & London & Globe Insurance was heavily damaged by the vandalism, but on January 17th 2016, its cleaned by Lopen Semarang History Community. Actually, its already twice We cleaned this marble plaque from the vandalism, wish it will be the last time we clean it up.

The emplacement of Semarang Central Station, owned by Semarang-Joana Stoomtram Maatschappij (SJS) in 1920. This central station served the city tram services as well as external lines to the cities to the east of Semarang. Unfortunately, nothings remains from this station after demolished in 80's decade. Source: Tropenmuseum

There was three major railway company in Semarang on the old days, Nederlandsch Indische Spoorweg Maatschappij (NIS), Semarang-Cheribon Stoomtram Maatschappij (SCS) and Semarang-Joana Stoomtram Maatschappij (SJS). NIS was the leading company at that time, its also became the company who built the first railways in Indonesia, or Dutch-Indies at that time. The main office of this company even much famous among the people nowadays, a building called Lawang Sewu means thousand doors. Also became landmark of Semarang city yet popular city destination. How about the rest? The SCS and SJS? Not so many people discussing about this two companies that also served the city of Semarang during the colonial period. After the independence of Indonesia, these company, NIS, SCS and SJS is amongst the eleven private railways company, together with the Staats Spoorwegen, the state railway company merged under Djawatan Kereta Api (DKA) Republik Indonesia on January 1st 1946. Currently the company change the name into PT. Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI).

Halte Genoek, the place were firstly the Buitenlijnen (External lines) of SJS
Tram services was inaugurated on July 23rd, 1883. The condition is getting
worse because of land subsidence that can go up to 14–19 cm/year.
(photos by: Abdul Hakim Nurmaulana)

Now, I'm gonna explain about SJS first, the source taken from the book titled De Tramwegen op Java, issued on 1907 in order to celebrated the 25 anniversary of SJS. SJS established on September 28th 1881 in Gravenhage, Netherlands. This company headed by Mr. M. A. H. Baron van der Goes of Dirxland. Firstly, this company get a concession to built tram network in the area of Semarang until Joana (Juwana) on March 18, 1881. So, SJS is the pioneer of the tram network in Java Island, as well as Indonesia. Seems like this company get a inspiration from the Netherlands which at that time also developed its tramwegen network, and prove as the good commuter services. The SJS also using the narrow-gauge railway, 1067mm. Its different from the NIS at that time that using standard-gauge railway, 1435mm on their line that lies from Semarang-Surakarta-Yogyakarta and also Kedungjati-Ambarawa. Narrow-gauge is thus often used in mountainous terrain, where the savings in civil engineering work can be substantial.

SJS succesfully inaugurated their first line of city tram on December 1st 1882, in Semarang. The network lies between Station Central Jurnatan until Djomblang Station along 5 km. Then not so long from its inaugurated the inter-city tramway connection, start from Semarang until Genoek Station, on July, 23rd 1883 and in the same year its reached Demak, on September, 27th 1883. All of the lines using steam tram locomotives for the rolling stock, because all the lines were designed for the tram locomotives. SJS using such a Beyer, Peacock & Co. trams, that specially built, or modified, to work on a street, or roadside, just like all of the lines condition of SJS have in the beginning. The tram services by SJS were using the B12 series locomotives, produced by NV. Werkspoor from Netherlands and also the same type produced by Beyer-Peacock, England. This locomotief have classification as 0-4-0 locomotives, which 0-4-0 represents one of the simplest possible types, that with two axles and four coupled wheels, all of which are driven.

SJS tram passing Bodjong Weg or currently known as Jalan Pemuda. In the
left its visible the building of Lawang Sewu, the NIS head office.
(source: Leiden University Library)

According to the book that I was mentioned before as the source of thic article, during the 25 years services of SJS in Java island on 1907, the company already had 389 Km railway track in total, and the services as follows. The first one is, The Semarang city tram services, after the initial line from Semarang Central to Jurnatan, then its completed into Station Saramang NIS, Kleine Boom (harbour), and the last one West Bandjir Kanaal that inaugurated on November 4th 1899. Its interesting to know, that the city tram is also integrated to the another station from different company, like to Station Samarang NIS that already mentioned above and on 1914 it will be also integrated with Semarang West Station, runs by SCS that served railways connection to the west like Pekalongan, Tegal, Cirebon, Batavia (Jakarta), etc. The second one is, Buitenlijnen or external lines, after firstly its inaugurated from Semarang Central to Genoek, then its completed the lines into Juwana, on April 18th, 1884, and extended to Lasem on May, 1st 1900. After that its also developed its services not only from Semarang-Juwana (Joana) like the name of the company but also to Tayu, Welahan, Blora (through Purwodadi), Gundih, Kradenan and Cepu.

The former SJS werkplats in Pengapon Semarang.
(Photos by: Adityo Cahyo)

The rapid development of the SJS in the late of 19th century, its seems not such a glorious on the following years. This company obliged to close the Semarang city tram services on 1940, due to the high amount of high operational cost. Its understandable, while another city tram like in Batavia and Surabaya already developed the double tracks and also electrified the tram, in Semarang, SJS still using the single track rails that of course is not accomodate much tram schedule, also still using the high cost steam tram, that using teak wood as its fuel. After the independence of Indonesia, this SJS lines failed to compete with the modern transportation mode, like bus. The type of the SJS rails which is not so wide (only 50mm width) and the position of the tracks which is side by side with the main roads, makes the train couldnt runs in maximum speed. Then now, only Blora-Cepu and Ngrombo (Purwodadi)-Gundih as part of SJS line, is remains in services.

Mass Grave for 40 victims from Massacre of Bugen Syuhada incident in Giri Tunggal Heroes Cemetery, Semarang.
(photos by: Yeremia Alfa)

Following the Independence of Indonesia on August 17th 1945, soon its also marked the outbreak of Indonesia National Revolution. The struggle lasted for over four years and involved sporadic but bloody armed conflict, internal Indonesian political and communal upheavals, and two major international diplomatic interventions. Dutch military forces were able to control the major towns, cities and industrial assets in Republican heartlands on Java and Sumatra, but could not control the countryside.

Hizbullah militians arrested by the Dutch Troops from
Tijger Brigade, after the raid somewhere in south-east of
Semarang, 1946. (source: Semarang Beeld van Een Stad)

Bugen, a villages in Pedurungan sub-district, eastern part of Semarang whereas one’s of the worst tragedy in the Indonesian National Revolution has happened. About 74 militians is perished during the raid by the Dutch forces from Tijgerbrigade on Thursday, December 5th 1946. During the Indonesian National Revolution, its not only the Tentara Nasional Indonesia (TNI) the regular armies were take a part, there’s also plenty of militians. The victims of tragedy which also known as the Massacre of Bugen Syuhada, is the militians from the Hizbullah and Sabilillah. Hizbullah, taken from the arabic words which means the Force of Allah, actually formed under the Japanese Authority, responding the demands from the Islamic factions to form the islamic forces. On December 8th 1944, then its formed the voluntary islamic forces, and became Japanese reserves armies headed by K.H. Zainul Arifin, one’s of the important figures in Nadhlatul Ulama (NU), the bigest Islamic organization in the world till today. If the Hizbullah was formed under the Japanese occupation as a reserves armies, Sabilillah, was not. Sabilillah was formed as the response of the high excalations between the indigenous people and the Allied forces, that came to restore the colonial power after the war. Sabilillah formed under K.H. Masykur, also from the NU organization, responding the declarations by K.H. Hasyim Asyari in October 22nd 1945, that the Indonesian National Revolution belongs to Jihad, the holy war. Sabilillah mostly taken its member from the pesantren , an Islamic boarding schools that very common in Indonesia, a place to learn about basic and Islamic studies, philosophies, martial arts and meditation.

The holes in the wall of H. Mustafa house at Bugen, the evidence of the
bloodshed that happened on December 5th 1946. (photos by: Yeremia Alfa)

Back to the Massacre of Bugen Syuhada stories, the Hizbullah and Sabilillah actually just came from Solo, planned assault to Semarang, the centre of the Dutch forces in Middle Java. They assaulted the British American Tobbaco (BAT) factory that turns into miltary headquarters. The assault failed and they retreated to avoiding the Dutch troops chased. They stayed overnight in Bugen village, on H. Mustafa house. Unluckily the Dutch troops captured their location, then a skirmished broke out and 74 militians perished. Most of them killed inside the house of H. Mustafa, as the bullets from the mitrailleur guns penetrated the wooden wall, hits the militians who take the house as a shelter. There’s a stories mentioned that, the Dutch troops later blast a dynamite to made such a big hole, as a place to buried the victims.

Nowadays, the hole that caused by the bullets in H. Mustafa house still preserved. Actually there’s a plan to patch it, but then its canceled in the middle of the process, because of the owners willings to preserves it as the memory to the events. There’s a monument built nearby the H. Mustafa house, a place where the 74 bodies of the militians were buried but later on 1960, 40 of the skeletons moved into the Giri Tunggal Heroes Cemetery, near the centre of Semarang city. The Bugen village itself now also known as Bugen Syuhada. The people added Syuhada an arabic words for men who died in the way of Allah, to commemorate these massacre.

Refrences:

Jejak Perjuangan yang Terlupakan (1), Kisah Heroik di Bekas Lubang Peluru by Rukardi Achmadi
Nadhlatul Ulama official sites (http://www.nu.or.id/)

Gemeente Kampoeng in Semarang.

The improvement of Kampung/ Kampoeng (residential Area), which inhabited mostly by the indigenous people by the lower class in town or city was one of the concern of the Gemeente (eng: City Municipalty) Semarang. The improvement having serious attention after the Hendrirk Frerk Tillema, the chemist who also having role as Gemeente Raad (eng: City council) criticized the condition of those kampong, which also brought much problems related to the public health issues, such as bad sanitation, inadequate latrines, and also flood. Then the programs so-called Kampoeng Verbetering (Kampoeng Improvements) were launched, and improved the several old kampongs in Semarang such as Pungkuran, Karangasem, Rejosari, Petelan, and so on. But then, Ir. Thomas Karsten, the notable architect at that time, inisiated to build the Gemeente Kampong. Its a housing complex, were established several house in the various type, divided based on economic ability of its residents. The idea were combined the kampong type residencies that were existed for a long time in Indonesia, which is always having a communal space, and also the modern housing related with the materials, running waters, sanitation, street lighting and sewage system. The idea then discussed in “Congres voor Volkshuisvesting” held in 15-17th of April 1922 with one’s of the decision is to ask the “Sociaal Technische Vereeniging” or the Board of Social Engineering to provide the improvement of housing complex in Semarang. Then on December 8th 1925, its established the N.V. Volkshuisvesting with the initial capital 2 million Gulden.

The remains of original house in Lempongsari built by N.V. Volkhuisvesting
identified as Type I. Nowadays people still called the original house as
“Rumah Guminte”, dated back in the old days these houses were built as the
programs initiated by Gemeente (eng: City Municipality)

The first set consisted of 141 properties in Mlaten, comprising of 48 houses “type O.O.” with a rental value of 3 Gulden per month, 51 houses “type O” with a rental value of 4 Gulden per month, 18 “Type I” with a rental value of 6 until 14 Gulden per month, and the houses “Type I” but with its own private lavatory with a rental value 8.50 per months and some tavern. These homes were all completed in 1929 and were immediately rented, as well as the homes of 2nd complex, whose construction started in 1929 which was completed in early 1930 arrived. Then its spread into the others complex such as Sompok, Koendjaranweg (now Jalan Rambutan), Ambengan (Halmaheira), Kintelan, Lempongsari, Kalilangse, and the fancy house in Tjandi Baroe.

House in Koendjaran Weg, currently Jalan Taman Sompok.

Relations between people in the housing complex and the surrounding older, unplanned kampongs intertwined. People oftenly hired people from the older kampong to do domestic chores, such as driver, servants and security. That interactions, then gone after the Japanese occupied Indonesia, in 1942. The cleanliness, hygiene and order had to be dropped, especialy in the parts that functioned as Interneringskamp (eng: internment camp), like Halmaheira and Sompok. These complexes, once the sites of modern humanity, became places of inhumanity. The kampongs were sealed off from neighbouring housing by a high bamboo fence or barbed wire. Even by January, 1944 Kamp Sompok-Lampersari was the biggest womens and childerns internment kamp in Indonesia, residenced with 7.870 people, 341 of them were deceased.

Social changes continued after Independence of Indonesia. Many of the new residents of these so-called Gemeente Kampoeng were those who works for the city municilpality (Kotapraja). After the 1958 the number of europeans who lived in these kampoeng decreased siginficantly, when Soekarno expelled all of the Dutch descendants as the result of political conflict between Jakarta and Den Haag.

Especialy in Lampersari had many newcomers because the military took over the houses from the Dutch.

Refrences:

Gedenkboek der Gemeente Semarang 1906-1931

Cars, Conduits, and Kampongs: The Modernization of the Indonesian City, 1920-1960.

The North-West part of Alun-Alun Semarang, with Muziektent (gazebo for music performance). Its depicted in the pictures that Alun-alun Semarang crossed by tram lines from the central station of Jurnatan to the west part of Semarang along Bodjong Weg (currently Jalan Pemuda) inaugurated on March, 3rd 1883.

There’s a popular place in Semarang called Simpang Lima means 5-way intersections. This centrum of Semarang having a big lawn in the middle of it, which became the famous rendesvouz for the people in Semarang, surrounded by plenty of hangout place. Most of the people recognize it as the Alun-Alun of Semarang. The location which is in the centre of “modern” Semarang, in the heart of its business district and also there’s a big mosque in the west side of it, made the peoples strongly believes that this was the Alun-Alun of Semarang. Alun-alun is a traditional characteristic of cities in Java. It can be seen in almost all cities in the island, well the existence of alun-alun for a city in Java is really a big deal, seen from its socio-cultural aspects. But actualy, the Alun-Alun of Semarang, isnt in Simpang Lima.

Alun-Alun Semarang in 1867, occupied about 7 hectares land and in distance
its visible the complex of Kanjengan. (source: Leiden University Library)

Alun-Alun Semarang has long gone existed, likely since 16th century when the Kabupaten (eng: Regency) of Semarang established. The form of Alun-Alun Semarang were unique. Unlike the alun-alun form in general, which have square form. There’s an hypothesis that its related with the bigest uprising under the VOC rules in Dutch Indies, Geger Pecinan. The initial morphology of the cities were devastated, since Semarang became the front city, illustrated in the map that made in 1741. But beyond that, the Alun-Alun Semarang having its Javanese Morphology just like the others alun-alun in Java, its having big Beringin Trees (Ficus benjamina) in the center, and surrounded by notable buildings such as the Masjid Agung (eng: Great Mosque) , Pendapa Kabupaten (regency centre), Prisons and Market.

Initialy, the Alun-Alun Semarang occupied 7 hectares area, and its not changed until in the end of 19th century. Then the north-east part of alun-alun were taken to built the new Post and Telegraph Office, Telephone office, and later also Central Bus Station were built in 20’s decade. In the South-West part of the alun-alun also taken to built the Stadstuin, the City Park. Then the alun-alun were reduced into 3,8 hectares area only. The Alun-Alun of course became a rendezvous point for people in Semarang. Alun-alun became an ideal place to hangout and socialized amongst people. Several events held in alun-alun recorded in photos of several archieves centre, such as horse racing, theatre, and bazaar. Even the transfer souvereignity from Dutch to Indonesia in 1949, here in Alun-Alun Semarang also became the place of ceremony with Letkol. Gatot Subroto became the representatives of Republic Indonesia government.

Alun-Alun Semarang in 1920. Here We could saw several Beringin trees (Ficus benjamina) a typical trees that placed in alun-alun and also the fence of Stadtuin. In the distance also visible the roofs of Masjid Agung Semarang.
(source: Leiden University Library)

After the independence, the alun-alun role as open space were declined, its even suffering for desacralization. Mostly, the alun-alun area remains preserved and never been converted considering its outstanding value moreover in the Javanese society. But here in Semarang, its different. Started with demolition of Stadtuin and converted into Pasar Ya’ik Permai in 60’s decade, the South-east part of alun-alun also converted into the extention of Pasar Ya’ik, made Pasar Johar Semarang, the central market lost “its face”. Then the alun-alun area completely gone when in 1977 its built Hotel Metro in North-West part of alun-alun and also STIE BPD.

Trace back the area now, where once Alun-Alun Semarang existed were completely different. Its even made We forgot that once, we have a place named Alun-Alun Semarang.

Landraad Semarang in 1904 taken from its backyard. Later the backyard built into Weeskamer building in 1907.
(source: Leiden University Library)

Something that I love from learning history is that this subject were really dynamic. An acknowledgement about an events, about places, everythings in history could be change everytime when peoples reveals something new. Like a bunch of mistery to solved,We’ll never end to digging everythings related to history, there’s millions of opportunity it will find something new. All of the things actually start with one things, curiousity!

Landraad location depicted in a 1909 map.
(source: Leiden University Library)

Just like what I found recently, about the building so-called Landraad, one’s of the court that set by colonial government in the old days. There’s a building in Kota Lama that known as the former Landraad buildings. Now the building turns into fancy restaurant and one’s of the favourite dinner place in the city of Semarang. The restaurant for sure servings the combination of good food and also 19th centuries antique environments.

The zoom of the landraad building.
there's a sign in the wall written
"Zaal van den Landraad" and
the dungeon cells its also.
(source: Leiden University Library)

Landraad basicaly is a superior court for the Non-Europeans peoples. Indigenous peoples under the area ruled by colonial government and other so-called natives and Foreign Orientals, including the Chinese were became its subject. Landraad have been established in all capitals of Kabupaten (eng: Regencies) and in few other centres. They hold sessions weekly and are composed of jurist, who is the chairman, of the Bupati (eng: Regent) and of such important indigenous chiefs as have been appointed as members by or on behald of the Governor-General. The indigenous persons who make it a profession to give legal assistance were up to short time ago as a rule known very unfavourably. They had little or no knowledge of law and many of them were only there in order to promote litigation or to provoke existing action. Then, its always makes me wonder, that this building is too fancy to be a court, especialy during the old days when the indigenous peoples were treated as derde klasse people’s, as an Inlander.

In every map, I hardly found any statement that this place once used as Landraad. Even more, I found that Landraad were located in Boebakan Weg (now Jalan Bubakan), about 500 meters to the souths. Misplaced? Thats what I thought for the first time. But then I strongly believed that its 100% misplaced, after I found out that this building, that once believed as Landraad actually is Landgerecht building, also kind of court but different purpose as well as its subject. Landgerecht is a court for petty criminals that established in 1914 replacing the role of Politierol that abolished in 1901. Landraad Semarang location is nearby the Central Gevangenis (eng: Central Prison) and its have its own dungeon cells also. Its totaly make senses due to people who prosecuted in Landraad is the peoples with serious criminal case. A famous figures from the nationalist movements, Mas Marco Kartodikromo got His 8 months of jail sentenced here, in Landraad Semarang on 1916. I believes much more peoples from the nationalist movements were prosecuted here, due to Semarang at that time became the most progresives city for the nationalist activism, one's of the reason is the revival of Sarekat Islam afdeeling Semarang. But unfortunately, this building that has an important historical values was gone and even its surroundings totaly changed. The Central Gevangenis, Landraad and also Weeskamer buildings that once in one complex were demolished once its became a theme park called Taman Hiburan Diponegoro, simply known as THD. THD then declining in early 90’s decade and changed into shopping complex until today.

Source: Colonial Policy: Volume II The Dutch East Indies

The office of Nederlandse Handel Maatschappij (NHM) in Semarang in 1910. Situated in the "gate" of the Kota Lama (eng: Old Town), made it one of the most famous buildings amongst other buildings in this neighborhood. The entrance under the tower is no longer exist. (source: Leiden University Library)

Ever been to Museum Bank Mandiri, Jakarta? This former head office of Nederlandse Handel Maatschappij (NHM), in the main entrance, its written on the wall “FACTORIJ”. Here in Semarang, once I saw also in the online archives of KITLV, mentioned this word also (factorij) referings the office of NHM in Semarang. Dutch and English has the same roots, known as the West Germanic language, so the word factorij, I wondering if its also has the same meaning as factory, but I was wrong. In the dutch languages, factorij means an establishment for traders carrying on business in a foreign country, this word also used in the old days by the British but no longer again, as in the oxford dictionary explains.

The lobby in the 2nd floor after the
renovation finish. Seems all preserved well.

Its make sense, since the NHM actualy established in 1824 by King Willem I of the Netherlands to promote and develop trade, shipping and agriculture overseas. The NHM actually the new version of Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC) that went to bankcruptcy in 1799. NHM have a responsibility to expanding existing trade, as well as financing industry and shipping mainly to East Indie (currently Indonesia), the Dutch main trade route. King Willem I of the Netherlands of course have a vision to revitalized its glorious period of trade, like under the VOC period that brought the Dutch into its Golden Age. Then in 1830, the Governor General introduced the new policy called Culuurstelsel. Cultuurstelsel meant that the indigenous people lease 20% of its land to be used for products for the export commodities. These export commodities such as indigo (dye), tea, sugar, and the most favourites at that time coffee! De Amsterdamse koffieveilingen (eng: Amsterdam Coffee Auction) were world famous as the place to get a good quality of coffee. This also later became the background for the story of Max Havelaar that criticize the practice of cultuurstelsel as the indigenous people sufferings from that policy.

As the protest continues to growth, the cultuurstelsel then abolished in 1870. This started the new phase in Dutch Indies, that is the liberation of economy. NHM then engaged in financing and banking operations. Its even later became one’s of the top big five company in Dutch Indies, together with Lindeteves-Stokvis, Borsumij, Geo Wehry and Jacobson van Den Berg. In the late of 19th centuries, almost all of the major cities in Dutch Indies have the NHM branch on it, Semarang of course one of it.

The view from the balcony above the
main entrance towards the Societeit Brug.
Peoples oftenly calls it as Jembatan Mberok.

The building of NHM in Semarang located in former sites of Societeit Amiticia (thats why the bridge in front of it called Societeit Brug, brug=bridge). Facing to the west with a tower that visible from one’s of the Semarang major yet important street of Bodjong (now Jalan Pemuda), made it easily recognized from distance. The building start to construct in August 2nd 1908 as its written in the plaque inside the buildings. The buildings has a beautiful façade, with a row of wide expresionism style of arch shaped were dominated the view of it. The buildings now owned by Bank Mandiri, the heir of all NHM assets in the whole Indonesia after its been nationalized in 1960. Bank Mandiri actualy merged from four different banks in July, 1999, such as Bank Bumi Daya (BBD), Bank Dagang Negara (BDN), Bank Ekspor Impor Indonesia (Bank Exim), dan Bank Pembangunan Indonesia (Bapindo). All of that four banks actualy owned the assets from the foreign company nationalization policy in the late 50’s decade. Thus, made Bank Mandiri had plenty of heritage buildings, all over Indonesia. This company anyway, such a good example how the corporation should take care of its asset, which belongs to the heritage sites. Just like their asset in Semarang, this former NHM buildings, just renovated and its re-inaugurated this November, 2016.

Wish the others will follow the steps

Part of Siranda-Kanaal, in front of Taman Budaya Raden Saleh (TBRS) along Jalan Sriwijaya, or Tegalwareng Weg in the old days.

Semarang has been long time well known as the city which is oftenly suffered from flood. As a harbour city, built in the vast swampy land, Semarang during the rain season, water overflow from its major river, Kali Semarang then its threatened the city. The problems then solved by constructed Kanal Banjir Barat (Bandjir Kanaal West) and then Kanal Banjir Timur (Bandjir Kanaal Oost) in 1900. The purpose of the construction of this two flood prevention canal is to control the water flows from the major rivers in Semarang like, Kali Garang (the sources for Kali Semarang), Kali Babon and Kali Bajak. But in the 20th Century, the development of Semarang made it needs more livingspace for its residences. The city developed to the south, to the area that was mainly ricefields and also to its hilly part of the city known as Heuvelstad. From the its newly hilly terrain, known as Tjandi, the new residencies area in Semarang, its need a new canal, to prevent the waterflows from its hilly terrain for flooding the new residencies area below it and also because of the waterflows when its rains to the east is still not in good condition. Then the Gemeente (eng: city municipality) Semarang on 7 November 1930, approved the proposal to the construction of Siranda-Kanaal.

Maps depicted the plan of Siranda-Kanaal construction in Locale Techniek journals in 1937.

Siranda Kanaal, built in the foot hills of Siranda hills, and its lies about 3 Km until its meets with the headwater of Kanal Banjir Timur in Peterongan. To built is isnt easy, its have to dig a lot due to its position when its entered Genoek Weg and Tegalwareng Weg (currently Jalan Sriwijaya) located in the hilly terrain. The canal also consist of a tunnnel with the length about 700 metres. The construction began in July, 1931 and finished in November, 1931 right in the months where the wet season is about to reach its peak. The very irregular structure of the soil in places where layers between various rocks even wet sand layers were digged. The lorries networks also set up for the purpose of the construction of Siranda Kanaal to transport all of the materials which were taken after its dug off from its place, or to send a new materials for the construction either. Also, its equipped by ground lift, with 1,2 tons cappacity to carried the materials. The land above the tunnels projected to became the new cemeteries for the Europeans, replacing the old ones in Kobong, but its never realized.

The Siranda-Kanaal during its construction in 1931.
(source: Locale Techniek journals, 1937)

The Siranda-Kanaal construction cost approximately ƒ 260 000,-, about 20 billions rupiah in current values. Half of the cost to construct it, funded by the central government. Nowadays, the canal still in use, and even in the 2015 its revitalized by the city municipality by strengthen its foundation also doing some excavation to dug up the sedimentation. But also, in the canal section nearby Peterongan market, the first concrete construction market in Semarang, above the canal its built three-storey building, known as Pasar Inpres building. These building, covered almost 200 metres of its canal, and actually its against the law where its illegal to built a building above the open drainage/ sewer. Also with the rapid development of Peterongan market, the inspection way along the canal were occupied by the sellers, and sadly these canals oftenly became huge garbage dump for them. People always complaining while the flood happens but in the other hand, the awareness of not to throw trash in the drainage, sewer, and river either were so low.

Sources:

1. Locale Techniek, 1937, Volume 006, Issue 003

2. Gedenkboek der Gemeente Semarang 1906-1931

This Antique House Belongs to Thio Thiam Tjong

Renew Old Memories in Purworejo (part 2)

The Old Voyager

Pabrik Rokok Praoe Lajar Semarang

Trace Back The Semarang City Tram History

The Enormous Size of Beringin Tree and The Sanatorium

The Luxury Office of Oei Tiong Ham Concern

Where is The Exact Place of De Locomotief Office?

The Combination of Javanese Pendopo and European Theatre Building called Sobokartti

Geo Wehry & Co. Building in Semarang and A Neglected Tombstone in Bandung

Semarang Weeskamer, Served The Cities for Almost Hundred of Year

Jatingaleh, The Waterloo van Java

The Englishman in Semarang

Semarang-Joana Stoomtram Maatschappij (SJS), the Pioneer of Steam Tram Development in Indonesia

When The Blood Spills at Bugen Syuhada

N.V. Volkshuisvesting and the Story of Gemeente Kampoeng

The Forgotten Alun-Alun Semarang

The Misplaced of Landraad Semarang

Bank Mandiri Kota Lama Semarang, former "De Factorij" of Nederlandse Handel Maatschappij

Siranda-Kanaal, An Old City Drainage System